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Woven interlining is the hidden engineering layer that separates a garment that holds its shape from one that doesn't. Manufactured by weaving warp and weft yarns into a stable base fabric — then optionally coating it with a thermoplastic adhesive — woven interlining delivers structure, dimensional stability, and professional finish across a wide spectrum of garment types. This guide covers every technical dimension you need to specify, source, and apply woven interlining with confidence.
Interlining is a hidden layer inserted between a garment's outer shell fabric and its lining. Its purpose is structural: it prevents distortion, supports stress-prone areas, and enhances the overall drape and silhouette of the finished garment. Among all interlining categories, woven interlining is widely regarded as the premium standard for tailored and formal apparel.
Unlike non-woven interlining — which bonds fibers together chemically or mechanically without weaving — woven interlining is produced on conventional looms, creating an interlocked structure of yarns in two directions. This construction grants it superior tensile strength, controlled stretch, and excellent recovery after washing or compression.
Key distinction: Woven interlining behaves directionally — it has a defined warp (lengthwise) and weft (crosswise) orientation. This predictability allows pattern cutters to engineer how a garment panel will respond to movement and laundering, something non-woven materials cannot replicate with the same precision.
Jiaxing Rainbow (UBL) Interlining Co., Ltd. — founded in 1995 and one of China's leading interlining manufacturers — organises its woven interlining range into four distinct product series, each engineered for specific garment demands.
A plain weave construction interlaces each warp yarn over-and-under each weft yarn alternately, producing the tightest possible interlocked grid. This results in high thread density, smooth surface texture, and excellent dimensional stability — ideal for shirt collars, cuffs, and pocket facings where a crisp, flat finish is non-negotiable.
Twill weave interlining follows a diagonal rib pattern, typically in 2/1 or 3/1 configurations. The float structure allows for a slightly softer hand feel compared to plain weave, while retaining superior strength. This makes twill interlining well suited to suit fronts, waistband reinforcement, and woven outer garments where a degree of drape is desirable alongside rigidity.
Tricot interlining is produced on warp-knitting machines, yielding a fine, stable knit with excellent recovery and softness. It is frequently used in lightweight dress shirts, blouses, and fine knitwear where the interlining must not add visible bulk but must still stabilise plackets and collar bases.
The Knitting Series provides multi-directional stretch with controlled recovery, making it suitable for stretch-woven or performance garments where the interlining must move with the fabric rather than restrict it.
| Series | Weave / Structure | Hand Feel | Primary Applications | Stretch Profile |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Plain Fabric | Plain weave (1×1) | Firm, flat | Shirt collars, cuffs, pocket facings | Minimal (warp & weft) |
| Twill Fabric | Diagonal twill (2/1, 3/1) | Moderate, slight drape | Suit fronts, waistbands, trench coats | Low–moderate (weft bias) |
| Tricot | Warp knit | Soft, smooth | Dress shirts, blouses, fine knitwear | Moderate (crosswise) |
| Knitting | Circular / warp knit | Supple | Stretch garments, performance wear | High (multi-directional) |
Source: UBL Product Range — interlining-factory.com
Accurate specification is essential when sourcing interlining. Below are the standard parameters offered by UBL Woven Interlining, along with guidance on selecting the correct values for your end use.
| Parameter | Standard Options | Selection Guidance |
|---|---|---|
| Weight (GSM) | 60 – 150 g/m² | 60–90 GSM for shirts; 90–120 GSM for blazers; 120–150 GSM for overcoats |
| Width | 90 cm / 112 cm / 150 cm (custom on request) | Match shell fabric cutting width to minimise waste |
| Material | 100% Cotton · Polyester/Cotton · Polyester/Viscose | Cotton preferred for breathability; poly blends for dimensional stability |
| Coating (Fusible) | PA (Polyamide) · PES (Polyester) · EVA | PA for general use; PES for high-wash articles; EVA for budget applications |
| Shrinkage Rate | ≤ 2% post-fusing & washing | Always pre-test with shell fabric to confirm compatibility |
| Color | White · Black · Natural · Custom dyed | Match to shell fabric tone; black interlining under dark outer fabrics prevents show-through |
Technical data based on UBL Production Standards
Woven interlining is available in two bonding formats. The correct choice depends on the construction method, the garment's end use, and the shell fabric's heat sensitivity.
Coated on one or both sides with a thermoplastic adhesive dot-matrix pattern. When pressed with heat and pressure, it bonds permanently to the shell fabric. Suitable for large-scale industrial production lines where speed and consistency are priorities.
Applied mechanically through sewing, pad-stitching, or basting. Preferred in high bespoke tailoring where the maker needs full control over garment construction and no heat exposure is possible due to delicate outer fabrics.
Incorrect fusing is the leading cause of interlining failure — bubbling, delamination, and garment distortion. Follow these parameters as a baseline when applying fusible woven interlining:
| Parameter | Recommended Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Press Temperature | 130 – 160°C | Adjust lower for synthetic shell fabrics; higher for cotton |
| Press Pressure | 2 – 4 kg/cm² | Insufficient pressure is a primary cause of delamination |
| Fusing Time | 10 – 18 seconds | Longer dwell time required for heavier GSM interlining |
| Cooling Period | 20 – 30 seconds minimum | Allow bonded panel to lie flat; avoid handling until fully cooled |
| Pre-Test Requirement | Mandatory with each new shell fabric | Test wash fastness, bonding strength, and handle before production run |
Refer to UBL Quality Assurance Guidelines for advanced press calibration protocols.
Storage guidance: Store woven interlining rolls in a dry, well-ventilated environment away from direct sunlight and excessive humidity. Keep rolls vertical or flat on purpose-built racks — horizontal stacking under heavy loads can compress the adhesive dot matrix, reducing bond strength before application.
Woven interlining is specified differently depending on the garment category. The solutions offered by UBL cover the full range of tailored and formal apparel:
| Garment / Area | Recommended Series | Typical GSM | Key Requirement |
|---|---|---|---|
| Shirt collar & cuffs | Plain Fabric | 60 – 90 | Crisp edge, flat surface, low profile |
| Suit / blazer fronts | Twill Fabric | 90 – 120 | Roll line support, structural body |
| Overcoat fronts & facings | Twill / Hair Canvas | 110 – 150 | Heavy-duty support, drape control |
| Waistbands | Plain / Twill Fabric | 80 – 120 | Anti-curl, firmness, roll resistance |
| Trench coat fronts | Trench Coat Series | 90 – 130 | Structure + weather resistance |
| Petticoat bodices | Tricot / Knitting | 60 – 80 | Soft hand, gentle structure, no show-through |
| Pocket flaps & plackets | Plain Fabric | 60 – 90 | Edge definition, lightweight reinforcement |
See the full product catalogue for additional garment-specific recommendations.
While non-woven interlining has its place in cost-sensitive and high-volume production, woven interlining consistently outperforms it in structured garment applications. The reasons are structural:
Interlocked yarn structure resists bias distortion. Garment panels cut and fused with woven interlining hold their geometric shape through sewing, pressing, and extended wear.
Woven interlinings withstand repeated industrial laundering at temperatures up to 60°C without delamination or shrinkage above the ≤2% threshold — critical for uniform and workwear applications.
Cotton and viscose woven bases bond more naturally with natural-fiber shell fabrics, reducing the risk of differential shrinkage or visual stiffness at garment panel edges.
The woven grid gives a cleaner cut edge than non-woven alternatives, reducing fraying risk during garment assembly and enabling tighter tolerances in collar, lapel, and cuff construction.
Complex garments — particularly high-end suits and overcoats — require more than a single interlining type. The full UBL range offers complementary solutions for complete garment engineering:
Established in 1995, Jiaxing Rainbow (UBL) Interlining Co., Ltd. is one of China's most experienced woven interlining manufacturers. The company operates production facilities in Jiaxing, Zhejiang and Shangrao, Jiangxi, with an additional overseas presence in Dhaka, Bangladesh — enabling responsive supply to garment manufacturers across Asia, Europe, and North America.
In 2000, UBL undertook a major equipment upgrade to align production capabilities with evolving global garment standards. The company's quality assurance programme covers every stage — from yarn sourcing and weaving to coating, finishing, and final inspection — ensuring consistent performance batch after batch.
| Location | Address | Phone | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jiaxing, China | No.18 Shanying Road, Huimin Town, Jiashan County, Jiaxing, Zhejiang | +86-573-84870988 | ubl@hzubl.com |
| Shangrao, China | Fengchao Industrial Park, Shi Town, Wannian County, Shangrao, Jiangxi | +86-793-3819978 | ubl@hzubl.com |
| Dhaka, Bangladesh | Leaf Apparel Solutions, GA 126 (2nd Floor), Cumilla Para, Badda Link Road, Dhaka 1212 | +88-01711929520 | leafentr@gmail.com |
Whether you need standard woven interlining rolls or custom GSM, width, and coating specifications, the UBL technical sales team is ready to assist. Contact us to discuss your project requirements, request fabric samples, or arrange a technical consultation.
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